“Everyone knows ShowSheen. It’s across all disciplines and is in everyone’s tack trunk because it’s great for shine and detangling,” she noted. “But I wanted to provide you with a little tidbit that I learned from a top five-star eventing groom.”

Tail care is a must at Ashker’s barn, and to get the best effect, she thoroughly sprays her horses’ tails with ShowSheen. Then, starting from the bottom, she uses her fingers to work the product into the hair all the way up to the dock and allows it to dry before brushing.

“This activates the detangling portion of the product, so that when you do go to brush out your horse’s tail, you won’t break any hair, which can eventually make the tail look thin and sparse,” she said. “This horse specifically has a fake tail, so I really want to avoid pulling or breaking those hairs, too. I also use the same treatment on my horses’ manes because of the great detangling effect it has on the individual hairs.”

In addition to using ShowSheen keep her horse’s manes and tails glowing and tangle-free, Ashker also applies it to her horses’ coats to bring out extra shine for the show ring. “I apply it to their coats when they’re still a little wet,” she said. “I think of it like a leave-in conditioner when you’re coming out of the shower, and it really creates that nice shine.”

Watch Ashker’s video below to learn how you can use her tips to keep your horse’s mane, tail and coat healthy and shiny.

About Laine Ashker

Five-star eventer and dressage professional Lainey Ashker has competed in numerous FEI competitions at the five-star level, including the Blenheim Palace International Horse Trials CC14* and the Defender Burghley Horse Trials CC15*. The horsewoman, who trains out of her Keystone Acres farm in Chesterfield, Virginia, also won the National Eventing Championship (Advanced Level) in 2013 aboard her long-time mount, Anthony Patch. More recently, she won her first CDI in May 2023 aboard her upper-level dressage horse, Zeppelin.  

This video is brought to you by Absorbine.

For More:

• Learn how to beat the bugs this summer with Laine Ashker’s top tips for fly control here.
• Gallop a CCI3* cross-country course with Ashker in this high-velocity GoPro footage, where she shares her strategies for tackling each obstacle over the challenging track at Maryland’s Fair Hill here.

Generally, fly sprays contain natural and synthetic insecticides to knock down or deter flies on contact. Others like UltraShield Gold combine tried-and-true ingredients like pyrethrin and permethrin with fatty acids to repel flies while also disrupting their navigation systems to stop them before they bite.

“I love UltraShield Gold’s new formula because it totally disrupts the flies’ GPS so they don’t bite your horse,” Ashker said. “I use it on my horses in the show ring, on the trail, in their stalls, in the cross-ties and especially when they’re turned out.”

Ashker also finds the UltraShield Sport ideal for competing in the hot and humid Florida weather where she’s based due to its water-based formula that’s sweat resistant and repels dust.

“When I’m working my horses in either grand prix or four-star eventing they’re always going to be nice and sweaty, especially in Florida,” she noted. “I love this product—I call it the ‘Blue One’—because I know it’s going to last through all of my work. That’s important because I don’t want to have to keep spraying my horses while I’m in the warm-up.”

Watch Ashker’s video below for her tips on how to keep your your equine partner fly-free this summer.

About Laine Ashker

Five-star eventer and dressage professional Lainey Ashker has competed in numerous FEI competitions at the five-star level, including the Blenheim Palace International Horse Trials CC14* and the Defender Burghley Horse Trials CC15*. The horsewoman, who trains out of her Keystone Acres farm in Chesterfield, Virginia, also won the National Eventing Championship (Advanced Level) in 2013 aboard her long-time mount, Anthony Patch. More recently, she won her first CDI in May 2023 aboard her upper-level dressage horse, Zeppelin.  

This video is brought to you by Absorbine.

For More:

• For Laine Ashker’s tips on how to create a healthy, shiny coat for the show ring, click here.
• For her winning recipe for hoof health, click here.

We’ll explain the various factors you should take into consideration when determining whether it’s too cold to bathe and provide step-by-step instructions on how to bathe your horse during the chillier months and offer “dry” bathing/grooming options for when it’s just too cold to bust out the suds.

When Is It Too Cold to Bathe Your Horse?

In general, horses are more tolerant of cold temperatures than humans. Even when it’s moderately chilly outside, you can hose most horses off from their elbows down without causing them any discomfort. However, horses completely wet to the skin can get chilled very quickly when temperatures drop.

Healthy horses should be able to handle baths without special treatment in temperatures as low as 50 degrees Fahrenheit. If you have a heated grooming area and an enclosed wash rack with warm water, you can bathe below 50 degrees, as long as you take certain precautions. Determining whether it’s too cold to bathe is also relative to your horse’s age and general health.

There are several factors to consider in making this determination:

• Is your horse clipped, or does he still have a full winter coat?
• His age and overall health. If your horse’s health is compromised in any way or he’s older, determine whether it’s absolutely necessary to bathe him or if a thorough grooming session would suffice. (More on non-bathing options below.) Chilly weather and a reduced body temperature can exacerbate existing health issues or create new ones.
• Do you have an enclosed wash area with warm water? Or do you only have access to cold water?
• Do you have sufficient time to ensure your horse’s coat is fully dry before turning him out or stalling him?
• Do you use a cooler to help him dry faster?

If you only have access to cold water and your horse has a thick winter coat, a full bath usually isn’t a good idea when the temperatures are chillier, especially if he’s turned out most of the time or you don’t have access to an enclosed wash area.

It is not safe to bathe your horse outside in cold temperatures. Even if the weather is milder one day, you might not be able to get a horse with a partial winter coat fully dry before the temperatures drop again—and with a wet, thicker coat, your horse could very easily get chilled. In this situation, spot cleaning would be the safer option.

How to Bathe Your Horse in Cold Weather

The key to bathing your horse in cold weather is to ensure he stays as warm as possible throughout the process and is completely dry before stalling or turning him out. If your horse is clipped, the drying process will be relatively fast; if he still has a partial winter coat, it can take several hours for him to fully dry.

Supplies:

• Source of warm water (preferably)
• Heated or enclosed wash area that provides protection from wind, rain and drafts
• Bucket and sponges
• Shampoo
• Sweat scraper
• Several large, thick towels
• Cooler
• Plenty of time to fully dry your horse

When the temperatures are still on the chilly side, it’s best to bathe your horse in an indoor, draft-free wash area with hot water, preferably during the warmest part of the day. Hose him down with warm to mildly hot water and work a minimal amount of shampoo through his coat as quickly and thoroughly as possible. (Hot water actually accelerates the cleaning and drying processes.)

Once you’ve rinsed off any remaining shampoo residue to the best of your ability, use a sweat scraper to quickly remove excess water clinging to your horse’s coat. Preferably, opt for a rubber-edged scraper, as the rubber easily conforms to the contours of your horse’s body to remove water more effectively. Then, rub his entire body down with the towels to soak up remaining moisture. Toweling him dry will also elevate the individual hairs of his coat, which allows them to dry more quickly, and it increases blood circulation to help keep him warm.

Once you’ve dried his coat as much as possible, outfit your horse in a wool or fleece cooler to accelerate the final drying process. Coolers are designed to wick moisture away from the skin to help prevent horses from getting chilled. If possible, hand-walk your horse in the sun or stall aisles until he’s completely dry. If this is not an option, allow him to fully dry in an enclosed area that’s protected from the elements. You might also provide him with extra hay while he’s drying to help keep him warm.

The Bucket-and-Sponge Method

If you don’t have access to warm water but really need to get your horse looking presentable for that first schooling show of the season, fill a five-gallon bucket with cool water and use a large sponge and minimal amount of shampoo to wash the most crucial areas of his body. The sponge-and-bucket method allows you to be more precise with your water and shampoo, especially if you’re concerned about your horse getting chilled.

If it’s absolutely necessary to wash his entire body, you might consider washing one side of your horse at a time, making sure to sweat scrape and towel his clean side before tackling the other. By washing small areas at a time or only areas that really need to be cleaned, you can limit the drop in your horse’s temperature.

Ideally, solicit a friend to help so you can shampoo and scrape off excess water from his coat twice as fast. If you don’t have a bathing partner, work on small sections of your horse’s body, being sure to shampoo, rinse, and scrape/dry each section as you go.

If you have enclosed wash area, but only have access to cold water you might be able to at least rinse/bathe his legs. This will limit the amount of his body that’s exposed to the cold water and allow you to more easily remove and any dirt or mud from his legs.

Additional Drying Tips

No matter which bathing strategy you opt for, ensuring your horse is completely dry before turning him out or stalling him is crucial to prevent him from getting chilled.

• Once outfitted in a cooler, walk your horse in the warmest area you have access to—an indoor arena, up and down a barn aisle or even an outdoor windbreak if it’s sunny outside.
• If your horse still has a slightly longer winter coat, you can also use a heat lamp to promote faster drying or even a hair dryer, as long as he’s comfortable with the noise.
• After he’s dried a fair amount, you can put him in a clean, dry stall, but keep a careful eye on him until his coat is completely dry. To best gauge this, ruffle different areas of his coat with your hand; the hair closest to his skin should be dry to the touch.
• If you plan to turn your horse out after his bath, use the same protocol above and watch for any signs shivering. If the temperature still necessitates blanketing, do not put his sheet or blanket on until you are certain his coat is completely dry. Blankets provide protection him from rain, snow and wind but do not wick moisture away from his coat or provide ventilation to facilitate drying.

Waterless Bath

Supplies:

• Rubber curry comb
• Grooming towels
• Stiff and soft body brushes
• Waterless shampoo
• Spray-on conditioner

If you live in a part of the country where it’s still just too cold to incorporate water in your pre-show prep, a thorough grooming session can suffice. Use a rubber curry comb and thoroughly curry your horse’s coat in small, circular motions to loosen any dirt, caked-on mud, manure and loose hair. Currying will help stimulate hair follicles’ natural oil production to enhance his coat’s shine. Follow up with a stiff body brush to remove any debris brought up by the curry. For sensitive areas like his legs and face, use a soft body brush or a grooming towel. A conscientious grooming session also provides the opportunity to check for any swelling, bumps or cuts on your horse’s legs, which are easy to overlook during the winter when he has more hair.

Apply waterless shampoo to your horse’s coat and work it into individual hairs with a soft body brush. This will help remove any remaining dirt as well as urine, manure or sweat stains and doesn’t require rinsing. Lastly, spray your horse’s coat with a leave-in conditioner to moisturize hair and help repel dust and shavings and use a soft body brush to work the conditioner into his coat.

So, even if the last winter snow is still thawing in your area, you can still get your horse squeaky clean with these chilly-weather bathing strategies to ensure he has that show-day glow for your first competition.

For More:

• For more top grooming tips and tricks, click here.
• Check out professional groom Laurie Pitts’ how-to bathing video on EQUESTRIAN+.

EVENTS

• WEF 9: March 4 – 9; Wellington, Florida
• Winter Spectacular X: March 4 – 9; Ocala, Florida
• TerraNova Winter Series IV: March 4 – 9; Myakka City, Florida
• World Equestrian Center March Dressage: March 5 – 9; Ocala, Florida
• Global Dressage Festival 9: March 6 – 9; Wellington, Florida
• Pacific Coast Dressage at Galway Downs: March 7 – 9; Temecula, California
• WEF 10: March 11 – 16; Wellington, Florida
• Global Dressage Festival 10: March 11 – 16; Wellington, Florida
• WEF 11: March 18 – 23; Ocala, Florida
• The Event at TerraNova: March 27 – 30; Myakka City, Florida
• Galway Downs International Horse Trials: March 27 – 30; Temecula, California

Watch & Learn on E+

Livestream: We’re super excited to announce that we’ll be livestreaming our first Galway Downs International Horse Trials in Temecula, California, on March 27 – 30. Watch on EQUESTRIAN+.

Gymnastics for Form: In this new video series on E+, Olympic show jumper Margie Engle explains how to teach your horse to develop form over fences and demonstrates flatwork and gymnastic exercises, including raised cavalletti, bounces and an in-and-out combination with a vertical and oxer. Check out her new series here.

Lateral Work, Changes & Trot Lengthenings: Dressage phenom Anna Buffini demonstrates how lateral movements build upon one another throughout a horse’s development and how to develop flying changes and trot lengthenings through the levels. Check out her new video series on EQUESTRIAN+ here.

Spring Health Checks

• Carefully check your horse’s pasterns for scratches.
• Inspect his hooves for thrush and/or soggy, weak hoof walls. For more on how to treat and manage thrush, click here.
• Get a Coggins test if your horse will be traveling this spring and summer.
• Do a fecal egg count test and deworm based on your horse’s living situation and your veterinarian’s recommendations.
• If your horse has had little to no access to quality pasture over the winter, consider checking with your vet to determine if you should have her vitamin E serum values checked.
• Schedule a dental exam and have your horse’s teeth floated if necessary.
• Work with your veterinarian to determine if your horse is due for any springtime vaccinations.
• As your horse is exposed to more light with the longer days and his winter coat starts shedding out, accelerate the process by using a shedding blade over the large areas of his body. Follow up with a stiff body brush to remove loose hair, dirt and dead skin cells to allow his sleeker, summer coat to grow in.
• Schedule a farrier appointment ahead of show season.
• Have your horse’s blood selenium levels check if you live in a selenium-deficient area.
• If your mare tends to get less-than-desirable to ride when she’s in heat and you use supplements, herbs or hormones to help manage her unwanted behaviors, check with your vet to see if now is the right time to start.

Barn & Trailer Management

• Check fence lines: Winter weather can be hard on fences. Examine your fences and enclosures carefully and make any necessary repairs.
• Clean out water troughs: Especially if your troughs have been partially frozen throughout the winter, give them a thorough cleaning.
• Trailer tune-up: This is good to do any time of year, but especially if your trailer has been sitting around for a few months, be sure to check the hitch, wheel bearings, tire pressure, lights, brakes, flooring and all latches.
• Start fly control: If you use a fly-control system like Fly Predators®, it might be time to deploy them depending on what part of the country you live in.
• Mud management: Use footing material like gravel or wood chips in areas heavily trafficked, manage manure, install gutters and downspouts, intercept surface flows and plant trees and shrubs to prevent your barn and surrounding areas from becoming a muddy mess as the last winter snow thaws.
• Spring cleaning: Power-wash stalls, scrub feed buckets, clear cobwebs, unclog gutters, declutter your medicine cabinet, organize your tack trunk, freshen up community areas and plant flowers to add a pop of color to your barn this spring.

Training & Show Prep

• Get the fresh out: Especially if your horse has been cooped up for much of the winter, help him get excessive energy out and ramp up his fitness with longeing sessions.
• Ready, set, check: Start your horse-show checklist to get all of your tack, apparel, equipment and other gear organized and ready for the competition season. Throw old or empty supplies out (or recycle) and replace as needed.
• Last call: Ensure all elements of your show apparel are clean, in good repair and working properly (if you wear a safety vest, for example). The same applies to your horse’s tack and other gear.

Baby On the Way?

• Prepare a foaling stall: Ideally, set up your mom-to-be’s foaling stall in a quiet location away from other horses and barn traffic. It should be roomy and open and free of any objects or protrusions that could pose a safety risk; be sure to provide safe water sources, non-stick bedding, fresh air and climate control for heat or cold. Washable walls and flooring will also make your life easier. Move your mare there well before her due date so she can get accustomed to her new quarters. For our full pre-foaling checklist, click here.
• Assemble a foaling kit: Key items include a halter and lead for your mare, headlamp with fresh batteries, stopwatch, notepad and pen (or your phone) to keep track of noteworthy events, tail wrap for your mare, small hand towels, large towels for drying the foal, bulb syringe, trash bags and disinfectant. Also, make sure you have your vet’s number programmed into your phone.
• Set up a foaling web cam: As your mare’s due date approaches, install a foaling webcam so you can easily keep an eye on her from anywhere and ensure it’s working properly well before the big day gets close.

Happy March, from your friends at Practical Horseman!

• Aural plaques: flaky white patches on the inner surface of the ear; occur when chronic fly irritation causes inflammation. Topical application of an antiviral or steroid cream can clear the plaques and soothe skin, but any pigment loss under the skin is permanent. Ear hair provides a natural defense against flies, so minimize trimming as a preventive. Protect clipped areas with repellent or a fly mask with ear covers.

• Dandruff: skin oil that sheds from the coat as either small, dry flakes or large, waxy crusts. Dry dandruff typically forms at the base of the mane and tail and on the girth area; oily dandruff usually appears on the elbows, hocks and lower legs. Either type results from a variety of causes, including allergies, insects, poor nutrition and undiagnosed illness, but the most common causes for crusty, scaly skin are bacterial infections (Staphylococcus). Some breeds, such as Thoroughbreds and Arabians, are more affected than others. Anti-dandruff shampoo formulated for horses can dissolve flakes and scales; products containing an antibacterial such as chlorhexidine will help to resolve large, waxy crusts; and a feed supplement may improve skin and coat condition.

• Hives: soft, raised, itchy bumps that develop and disappear often suddenly as part of a reaction to an insect bite or sting, medication or exposure to an allergen. May be seen on any part of the body, but mainly occur on the back, flanks, legs, neck and eyelids. Hives usually resolve without treatment; identifying and preventing exposure to the causative agent may be necessary in chronic cases.

• Insect bite hypersensitivity: allergic skin disease caused primarily by the saliva of insects of the genus Culicoides (midges, gnats, no-see-ums). Signs include itching, skin thickening, lesions, scaling, crusting, hair loss and hives. Appears primarily on the face, mane, ears, trunk and tail. Corticosteroids can relieve the cycle of itching, but prevention is key: Apply fly spray; stable horses at dusk and dawn (the insects’ preferred feeding times); use fans to create air currents too challenging for the flies to navigate; and maintain a clean, dry environment to disrupt breeding and reduce numbers.

• Lice: tiny wingless parasitic insects that live in the haircoat and are visible upon inspection. There are two types: chewing, which feed on hair and dead skin, and blood-sucking. Both cause itchiness, and horses may bite at or rub infested areas, causing hair loss and skin damage. Sucking lice create small wounds that may become infected. To treat: Use a spray containing pyrethrin, synthetic pyrethrin or the organophosphate coumaphos.

• Mange: infestation by a parasitic mite that feeds by piercing the skin or burrowing into it. Signs include red, moist, crusty skin patches and intense itching over the body (sarcoptic mange), ears (psoroptic mange) and lower legs (chorioptic mange). The condition is passed from horse to horse through direct contact or via shared equipment. A topical or oral acaracide, such as ivermectin or moxidectin, will eliminate mites. A topical shampoo may help to remove crusting and scabs.

• Melanoma: tumor of the skin cells that produce pigment (melanocytes); common in aging gray horses due to the gray gene; appears as a raised, round, firm black nodule; typically found under the tail, around the anus, on the eyelids and in the corners of the mouth. Most melanomas are benign, and horses may require no medical intervention. Treatment options include removal via surgery, cryotherapy or laser; local chemotherapy; oral medication and immunotherapy.

• Photosensitivity: painful inflammation of lightly or unpigmented patches of skin; much more extensive than sunburn. Results from the ingestion of certain plant toxins that eventually circulate in the capillaries near the skin surface and are activated by sunlight. The toxins are present in a number of common pasture plants, including St. John’s wort, buckwheat, bishop’s weed, spring parsley and some varieties of clover, particularly alsike. Photosensitivity may also be related to a few types of antibiotics (tetracyclines) and impaired liver function. To treat: Relieve pain, prevent infection, eliminate exposure to the cause, apply sunblock and outfit horses in UV protective sheets and masks.

• Rainrot: crusted, painful skin infection caused by Dermatophilus congolensis, a microorganism that resembles bacteria and fungi and normally lives on skin. Wet conditions stimulate the release of spores and spread the infection. Treatment involves antibiotics. Topical antibacterial shampoo may be used to soak scabs so they can be removed. Clipping affected areas may be necessary. Isolate infected horses to reduce the spread of disease. 

• Ringworm: fungal infection that appears as an itchy, circular pattern of hair loss, usually on the girth and saddle areas. The fungi are found in soil and can be picked up when a horse digs, rolls or lies down. Typically, the infection is transmitted through shared tack and grooming supplies. Ringworm can clear without treatment. Antifungal shampoo or topical therapy can speed recovery. To prevent spread and recurrence, disinfect equipment and other potentially contaminated surfaces.

• Sarcoid: tumor caused by papillomavirus infection; usually not painful or itchy. There are six distinct types:

• verrucose–gray, flat, scaly with an irregular surface, slow-growing; often seen on the face, trunk or sheath; the least aggressive sarcoid tumor
• occult–small, flat, gray, hairless, slow-growing; may not change for years; usually occurs around the mouth and eyes, on the neck and relatively hairless areas, such as the inside of the forelimbs, armpits and thighs
• nodular–distinct solid lump; may ulcerate and bleed, can appear singly or number in the hundreds usually on the groin, sheath or eyelids
• fibroblastic–aggressive and fast-growing, irregularly shaped, firm, fleshy raised lump; usually smooth and hairless; may ulcerate and bleed; often occurs in clusters on the eyelid, groin, lower limbs, coronary band and the site of a skin wound or trauma
• mixed–a combination of two or more types
• malevolent–rare, aggressive tumor that spreads extensively through skin; may ulcerate and bleed; often forms on the jaw, face, elbow or inner thigh.

Treatment options for all types of sarcoids include surgical removal, immunotherapy, chemotherapy, cryotherapy and laser surgery. The recurrence rate in horses is high.

• Scratches: painful scabby or oozing skin infection above the heels; caused by a mix of bacteria, fungi and parasites that enter breaks in skin; most often occurs when footing is excessively wet, muddy or dirty. Mild cases may resolve by cleaning and clipping the affected area and keeping it dry. Severe cases may require topical treatment with an antibacterial, antifungal or steroid alone or in a mix; oral antibiotics may be necessary for extensive conditions.

• Summer sore: itchy, inflamed lesion caused by the migrating larvae of gastric worms (Habronema and Draschia species); may become swollen and raw as horse rubs, ooze blood-tinged fluid and fill with lumpy, reddish granulation tissue. Treatment includes topical or systemic glucocorticoids or a topical mixture of glucocorticoids and dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO); excess granulation tissue may require surgical removal. 

• Sunburn: painful reddening, inflammation and possible blistering and peeling of pale or nonpigmented areas of the skin caused by overexposure to the sun’s ultraviolet rays. Treat with a soothing, moisturizing topical ointment, such as zinc oxide or silver sulfadiazine. To prevent: Stable during the day, provide shade outdoors, apply UV sunscreen (a horse-specific product or one that is child-safe, at least SPF 30), use protective fly sheets and masks.

• Sweet itch: allergic skin disease caused by biting midges (Culicoides). Salivary proteins injected into the skin cause intense itching. The mane, tail and withers are most often affected. Rubbing to relieve the itch can produce open wounds and secondary infections. Treatment may rely on topical corticosteroids and/or antihistamines. Preventive measures include insect repellent, fly sheets, face and ear masks and stabling from dusk to dawn when Culicoides are most active.

• Vitiligo: autoimmune destruction of cells that produce melanin, the natural pigment that colors skin and hair. Appears as white or light patches that vary in size and location; often develops around the lips and on the muzzle and eyelids. Vitiligo is more common in gray horses; it is linked to an immune response against melanomas, which may be present in the perineal and tail areas. There is no treatment.

• Warts: small, rough, gray-white growths caused by papillomavirus; often seen on the muzzle, ears, genitals and pasterns of horses age 4 and younger whose immune system has yet to fully mature. Most warts resolve on their own. Treat inflamed or sore spots with an over-the-counter antiseptic or topical moisturizing lotion. Surgery, topical cream or cryosurgery may be an option for warts causing discomfort. Papillomavirus is contagious, so quarantine any infected individual, don’t share equipment and disinfect all surfaces to kill lingering organisms.  

Practical Horseman thanks Rosanna Marsella, DVM, DACVD, for her technical assistance in the preparation of this article. A veterinary dermatologist, Dr. Marsella is a professor at the University of Florida College of Veterinary Medicine in Gainesville, where she also serves as the director of the laboratory of comparative dermatology. 

In addition to my regular grooming regimen, quality nutrition, proper barn management and smart use of shampoos, conditioners and shine-enhancing sprays are crucial components for achieving that pristine horse-show glow.  

Secret in the Seed 

In my experience, the foundation for a healthy, shiny coat starts with good nutrition. Horses lacking essential nutrients won’t be able to grow a healthy coat and strong mane and tail. I ensure my horses’ diets are complete with balanced proportions of protein, fat, vitamins and minerals. For picky eaters or horses on limited grain, I sometimes supplement with specific nutrients that can augment shine. Omega-3 fatty acids from healthy fat sources like flaxseeds can especially benefit overall coat health. 

Groom for Gleam  

I thoroughly curry my horses with a rubber currycomb to help loosen caked-in dirt, shedding hairs and dead skin cells and to stimulate the hairs’ natural oil production, which can help enhance shine. I then go over their coats with a stiff body brush using short, brisk strokes to remove any particles stirred up by the currycomb. Next, I use a soft body brush in longer strokes to help smooth the hairs down in their natural direction. 

I top off my grooming routine by applying a coat conditioner to hydrate the hair and enrich coat color. One of my go-to products is Santa Fe Coat Conditioner & Sunscreen. It’s a spray-on conditioner that contains vitamin E and silk proteins to help strengthen and moisturize hair follicles.  

I mist the large areas of my horses’ bodies with the spray and then go over their coats with a soft mitt or fine brush to ensure the conditioner is distributed evenly and to further smooth hairs down. This enhances shine by helping their coats reflect light more uniformly. 

The spray is also useful at shows to help repel dust, dirt and shavings and to prevent stains from setting in. Plus, it’s especially beneficial for my horses with dark coats because its built-in UV protection helps prevent their coats from bleaching out during the summer. 

Mane and Tail Taming

Tail care is an everyday must at my barn. I start by picking out shavings, hay, dirt clods or other debris with my hands. Using a brush to comb out shavings and larger particles often results in unnecessary hair loss and split ends.  

I next thoroughly spray my horses’ tails with ShowSheen Hair Polish & Detangler. Starting from the bottom of the tail, I use my fingers to work the product into the hair and detangle any major knots and then continue all the way up to the dock. If you start at the top, you risk creating split ends that can make tails appear sparse and uneven.  

Once the hair is saturated with the detangler, I find it’s OK to use a wide-toothed comb or a brush designed for tails for any last tangles. The detangler helps soften and smooth down individual hairs to reduce breakage and create a healthier, fuller look for the show ring. I tend to give my horses’ manes the same treatment, but I don’t do it quite as often unless I’m heading to a big event.  

Shower Power 

When it comes to shampooing, I try to limit my horses’ soapy bathes. Shampoos can strip the coat’s natural oils resulting in a dull, lackluster appearance. But in preparation for big events, I use ShowSheen’s 2-in-1 Shampoo & Conditioner to clean and condition the hair in one step. It makes their coats incredibly soft and doesn’t leave a residue.  

During warmer months, I typically rinse off my horses with water every day or every other day due to the heat and humidity. If they’re sweaty after a workout, I rinse off their entire bodies to remove grime or salt residue. Other times, a quick hose to their legs, girth area and chest does the trick. 

To ensure my horses get consistent, quality turnout during the summer, I turn them out overnight to limit heat exposure. But summer rainstorms, along with humidity and mud can lead to bacterial skin issues. Rinsing them off with water after I bring them in from turnout can prevent any skin problems from festering. If my horses get more serious skin issues, I treat affected areas with Silver Honey Medicated Shampoo or Fungasol Shampoo to help the skin fully heal.  

Overall Coat Health 

While a shiny, vibrant coat and silky soft mane and tail are impressive in the show ring, it’s important to keep in mind that the condition of your horse’s coat is an important indicator of his overall health. A dull, rough or sparse coat can be a sign of nutritional deficiency or illness. Gastric ulcers, parasite infection, recurrent colic and hormone imbalances are just a few conditions known to cause dull, lackluster coats. 

If your horse never seems to develop a healthy, glowing coat after you’ve ensured he’s getting the adequate nutrients necessary for shine and implementing a regular grooming routine, work with your veterinarian to rule out any underlying medical conditions that might be affecting his coat quality.

Show-Day Tips 

• To add polish right before I enter the ring, I apply ShowSheen Finishing Mist or Santa Fe Coat Conditioner & Sunscreen spray to a fleece mitt and work it into the coat. It gives my horses a sleek, shiny look without making their coats slick. 

• Grooming rags are a must for adding shine to my horses’ faces. I simply apply the spray to a rag and use it to brighten up specific areas. 

• For spot cleaning, I spray ShowSheen’s Miracle Groom on any unexpected stains and then use a brush or towel to thoroughly clean. 

• For horses with white markings, I use a brightening shampoo like ShowSheen’s Stain Remover & Whitener to help lift dirt off the skin and hair. You can also add it to a grooming rag and apply it to white facial markings. 

Lainey Ashker 

Five-star eventer and dressage professional Lainey Ashker has competed in numerous FEI competitions at the five-star level, including the Blenheim Palace International Horse Trials CC14* and the Defender Burghley Horse Trials CC15*. The horsewoman, who trains out of her Keystone Acres farm in Chesterfield, Virginia, also won the National Eventing Championship (Advanced Level) in 2013 aboard her long-time mount, Anthony Patch. More recently, she won her first CDI in May 2023 aboard her upper-level dressage horse, Zeppelin.  

To read about Lainey Ashker’s winning recipe for healthy hooves, click here.

The Evolution of ShowSheen 

In 1974, Absorbine® launched what was to become the gold standard of grooming products: ShowSheen. The iconic first-of-its-kind grooming spray is the world’s No. 1 grooming aid.  

Over the years, Absorbine developed a collection of effective ShowSheen products that have become staples in tack trunks worldwide. Owners keep their horses looking their best in the show arena and on the trail with ShowSheen.  

Top riders, like Nicholas Fyffe of Marcus Fyffe Dressage, rely on ShowSheen to keep their horses feeling and looking their best in and out of the show arena. Nicholas says, “Being based in Wellington year-round means that our horses sweat heavily in the summer, and this can lead to dry skin and other irritations from grooming products and frequent hosing. We recommend the ShowSheen Hair Polish and Detangler not just because it gives our horses’ coats a nice shine but the provitamins keep the skin nourished, looking good and feeling healthy.” From daily care to show-ready shine, ShowSheen has become the grooming spray riders of all disciplines and levels trust to keep their horses healthy and looking their best. 

Enhance Your Grooming Routine with ShowSheen 

ShowSheen products are meticulously formulated by haircare professionals, with top-quality, salon-inspired ingredients that deliver exceptional results — keeping your horses’ coats, manes, and tails healthy and looking luminous. Each product in the ShowSheen line promotes your horses’ health and wellbeing with pro-vitamins, silk proteins, and other ingredients to moisturize and nourish coats, manes, and tails.  

The Science Behind the Shine 

• Clinically proven to reduce breakage by 40% across independent, repeated grooming experiments comparing broken fibers. 
• Proven to instantly add volume and improve appearance by filling and smoothing the hair shaft, as seen when comparing and analyzing surface hair fiber condition using scanning electron microscopy. 
• Decreases dry combing force by 38% as demonstrated by brushing trials measuring frictional forces. 

Building a Bond 

The bond between horse and rider strengthens during your regular grooming routine. Grooming not only has physical benefits, such as helping maintain healthy skin and coat, but it also has emotional benefits for both horse and rider. Taking the time to groom your horse allows for bonding, trust-building, and communication.  

Grooming is More than Just Cleaning 

Grooming is not just about cleaning your horse; it’s an opportunity to give back and bond with your equine partner. This time together should be enjoyable for your horse, promoting relaxation and comfort. Understanding the right pressure levels and techniques is essential for making grooming a positive experience. Observing your horse’s reactions will guide you in refining your technique, ensuring each grooming session is enjoyable for both of you. ShowSheen products complement these techniques, ensuring grooming is an effective and rewarding experience. 

Trusted Legacy 

Trusted for generations, ShowSheen helps bring out the true radiance in horses of all trots of life, whether they’re in the winner’s circle or just enjoying time in the pasture. Here’s to fifty golden years of impeccable grooming—and to many more to come. 

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A: Crisp autumn air has arrived and so has new growth on your horse’s coat. Seasonal transitions can pose challenges for your horse, but regular grooming can help. Coats already begin growing out as early as mid-August to prepare for the cooling temperatures. During this time, your horse may become itchy and uncomfortable. You can maintain your horse’s comfort and health through the seasons by developing a seasonal grooming routine.

By paying close attention to your horse’s environment, his coat length and luster and any signs of discomfort, you can prevent skin issues and help him enjoy a healthy transition into the new season.

Determine your routine. Currying is always the go-to practice for new seasons. To remove loose hair and debris, vigorously rub circles all over your horse’s coat. Use a gentle rubber curry comb, not a metal curry, on shorter transitional coats. For a very woolly horse, try adding a deshedding comb or rake to your routine. Using this tool on the longer areas of the coat can loosen the hair and make horses look more presentable through the season. A rake with closely placed teeth is ideal for dense, compact coats. While your horse’s coat will likely determine the type of tools to use, you can also consider the horse’s personality. Each horse is different and may have a preference between curry combs and clippers. Try a few different tools to see how your horse responds before finalizing your routine.

Try clipping your horse. Experienced equine groomers can opt to clip the horse if he is not yet shedding or has just started to shed. I recommend clippers that are cordless (for mobility) and have the ability to run for a few hours at a time. I also like clippers that have removable battery packs that can be swapped out during long grooming sessions. You still need to curry a clipped horse, as he will shed the fragments of hair that are left from the previous season’s coat. I like to use a grooming glove since you can get into every nook and cranny. This can also help you detect any health issues or discomfort your horse may be experiencing.

Keep the coat clean and dry. Inclement weather—and the mud that follows—can leave a horse cold and wet. Try to make sure your horse spends a portion of every day in a nice, dry environment. As the weather cools, it’s especially important to ensure that moisture does not get trapped in your horse’s coat. A fine, short coat in the summer is more conducive to evaporating sweat and regulating your horse’s temperature. As the coat grows longer, an active horse will require a regular grooming routine. Currying the coat as it grows out can prevent moisture from getting trapped. Clipping the legs and pasterns down the back also helps keep the skin dry. When trimming, avoid clipping in an upward motion, as that could nick or irritate the horse’s skin and invite infection.

Take a closer look. If you notice your horse’s coat is dull and has lost its luster or if your horse exhibits signs of discomfort during grooming, check his skin. Scratches, rain rot and other skin conditions can crop up at this time of year. Use your fingers to feel beneath the coat. Check the armpits, chest and face closely for any hidden issues like bumps, scabs or roughness. You can try working a bit of cornstarch-based baby powder through the coat or zinc oxide cream for moderate skin issues. If you discover any major irritations, consult your veterinarian.

By paying close attention to your horse’s environment, coat length and luster and any signs of discomfort, you can prevent issues and help your horse enjoy a healthy transition into the new season.

Cat Hill grew up in New York riding ponies and later rode show hunters through college. After college, she moved to Ireland and worked at Mullingar Equestrian Center with show jumpers and eventers. She later returned to the U.S. and was a working student for a top Grand Prix dressage rider before being hired to manage eventer Mara DePuy’s barn. Today she freelances as a groom for various disciplines and teaches lower-level riders in dressage, jumping and eventing. She and Emma Ford wrote the book, World-Class Grooming.

Of course, we all know the basics of good grooming: curry, brush and bathe when necessary. Then rub that coat until it gleams. Indeed, you’d be hard pressed to find a professional groom who doesn’t stick to this routine, no matter the season.

However, there’s more to keeping a horse’s skin healthy and his coat radiant when temperatures soar and humidity peaks—especially during a long, hectic competition season. So, we asked veteran U.S. Equestrian Team groom Laurie Pitts and Ciera Cordero, who grooms for Canadian Grand Prix dressage rider Shannon Dueck, to share their favorite summer coat-care tips.

Tools and Techniques

It goes without saying that you should start each grooming session with clean tools and brushes that aren’t past their prime. Also, be sure to budget enough time to do the job right. While a vacuum might afford a quick fix, it doesn’t stimulate the circulation or distribute oils throughout the coat like a thorough hand grooming.

Pitts and Cordero have a few noteworthy suggestions to basic grooming. “I’m a big fan of the tried-and-true curry mitt,” said Cordero. “I use the soft side gently on faces or legs and the stiffer side on the rest of the body,” she continued, adding, “Elbow grease is a coat’s best friend.”

For her part, Pitts recommended taking advantage of your horse’s short summer coat to use your hands more this season. It’s a great way to keep tabs on the health of his skin. “For summer grooming, I spend a little more time using my hands to feel for tiny imperfections that are, in reality, an insect bite, a small thorn, a tiny tick, and ingrown hair,” she noted. “These small things can easily be missed with grooming tools, but a thorough hands-on exam will often find them before they become problems.”

In addition, Pitts suggested adding the following to your summertime tool kit:

• a fly spray with a built-in UV protectant 
• apple cider vinegar with “the mother” (beneficial bacteria, yeast and protein that can give it a cloudy appearance)
• rubbing alcohol

Why apple cider vinegar? As Pitts explained, it is a natural insect repellant with anti-fungal properties—especially important in the summer because fungus loves warm, moist skin (as does rain rot, which is a skin infection caused by the bacterium Dermatophilus congolensis). “I will add this to clean bath water as a rinse after a hose off or to dip a sponge in if its only sweat marks that need addressing,” she said. “It also increases shine!”

Cordero agreed. “I like to think I’m a bit of a hot-weather expert, considering I’ve [been] living in Florida year-round for more than a few years now,” she said. “I’m incredibly picky with grooming especially during the hot season … I even do some vinegar baths when needed to help with any fungus, and it leaves a super shine to their coat.” 

As for alcohol, it’s handy “… if you need sweat marks to dry super-fast, like at a horse show,” Pitts maintained. “It will also cool a horse quickly when applied liberally to the chest, flanks and legs.” However, she warned that it’s drying and therefore not for everyday use.

Sweat and Water

By the way, don’t sweat the sweat unless there isn’t any when there should be. In this case, get your horse into the shade and contact a veterinarian immediately to check for anhidrosis.

That said, sweat can wreak havoc on the skin and coat if not removed after a ride. This is due largely to its salt content.

One simple solution is to get out that hose. “To cool horses down, to get the sweat out of their coats, to rinse pollen, grass seed and other things off of their legs, requires water,” Pitts said. “Leaving sweat to dry in their coats is not good horsemanship. The salt in sweat is very drying to coats and is impossible to remove with just grooming. Your use of soap doesn’t need to increase, but water does.

Precautions to take, whether rinsing sweat out of your horse’s coat or giving him a full bath, include painting his hooves with a water-resistant dressing beforehand to keep excessive moisture from weakening the hoof walls. Then, after rinsing your horse, get as much water out of his coat and legs as possible, taking special care to dry the legs thoroughly. Whether you use a sweat scraper, a dry sponge and/or a lot of clean, dry towels, this step is critical. “All my horses get their legs washed after every ride and towel-dried to promote healthy skin and avoid fungus,” Cordero noted.

Cordero has another trick that she uses when she needs to take care of a horse who has sweat: “When a horse isn’t too sweaty after, say, a trail ride, I will apply a spray hair moisturizer and let their coats dry all the way, then curry and brush their coats out,” she said. “But if your horse is very sweaty, I highly encourage giving them a shower; it will
be better for their skin and temperature regulation in the long run.”

Bathe Like a Boss

While it might be tempting to bathe your horse often during the sticky, icky “dog days” of summer, lathering up too frequently, especially with a harsh shampoo or soap, can strip the natural oils and leave him with dry, itchy skin. So can failure to rinse, rinse, rinse until nary a soap bubble is seen.

This can start a vicious cycle since your horse will be inclined to roll to ease the itching, dirtying his coat all over again. While a layer of dirt or mud can indeed soothe the itch and protect your horse from biting flies, it’s obviously less desirable at show time—and re-bathing him will only dry the skin again.

So how often is too often? While it depends on the individual horse, his coloring and his competition schedule, Cordero had this to say: “My horses get hosed off after every ride and properly bathed about once a week unless something else is happening … to avoid dry hair and skin.”

Pitts said her routine is usually “… a good soap bath before a horse show and washing of white areas as needed. This routine does not apply to gray horses. For them, do what it takes at the show to keep them sparklingly clean. Then, at home, back off and use as little shampoo as possible.”

When you do bathe your horse, use a scrub mitt to get deep down to the skin and be as thorough as you can while using the least amount of soap. One of Pitts’ pet peeves is a freshly bathed horse being walked away with sweat lather still between his hind legs. “Ewwww!” she said. “Stick the hose between the hind legs and rinse well.”

Follow up by scraping and towel drying—right down to the pasterns and heels—just as you do with a daily rinse-off. Remember, heat plus moisture left against the skin can cause trouble.

Banish Bleaching

One of the telltale signs of summer is the bleaching of dark horses’ coats when they are turned out in full sun. If you don’t like the reddish hue that can result, Pitts’ tip about fly sprays with UV protectants is one way to help prevent this.

Cordero concurred, casting her vote for clothing that guards against damaging rays. “The best way to avoid sun bleaching is fly sheets and using sprays that help with SPF,” she said. 

Then there are those delicate, pink-skinned noses and the “bald” areas around brands, both of which can get painfully sunburned. What to do? There are sunscreens and sunblocks specifically formulated for horses, some of which include skin-soothing aloe. It’s best to opt for non-greasy products formulated without drying alcohol.

Alternatively, you could simply keep your horse stabled during the brightest daylight hours or use sun-shielding masks. If they have a pink nose, I use a long fly mask with a flap over it,” Cordero said.

Stop the Stains

Every competition groom has a trick or two for making gray coats and white markings “pop.” These methods become especially important during show season. 

Of course, getting whites white and keeping them that way can take a little time. That’s why many grooms recommend starting the whitening process on dingy, yellowed areas (like fetlocks and hocks) well before you leave for the competition, using whitening products sparingly to avoid skin irritation.

“There are many spot-washing/dry shampoo products on the market to help with stain removal and keeping socks white,” Pitts noted. 

“There are some companies that sell a special whitening spray you can use for last-minute stains that works super,” Cordero said. “Other than that, I love to use whitening shampoo on whites; it’s the best way to get them clean. Leave it to sit for 10 minutes and your horse’s whites will be sparkling! 

“I also love those grooming wipes, they work great as a last-minute touch up and add superior shine,” she said. “They are gentle enough to clean noses and ears but tough enough you can scrub at any stain.”

Diet Matters

Of course, grooming isn’t the only way to produce a dazzling coat. It’s also important to think “inside out” when striving for that shine. 

Ensure that your horse has regular veterinary care, including a customized deworming program (have you done a fecal count lately?) and good daily nutrition to prevent his haircoat from becoming dull or brittle. In particular, verify (with an equine nutritionist, if necessary) that your horse is receiving protein, fat, copper, iodine, zinc and vitamins A, E and C in appropriate quantities. Remember, too, that more is not necessarily better with some nutrients—it can even, in the case of selenium, be toxic.

Is supplementation essential for a lustrous coat if your horse’s diet is already balanced and nutritious? Opinions on this vary, and the answer might depend in part on the individual. “All my horses stay on some kind of flaxseed supplement year-round,” Cordero noted. However, she added, “Quality feed and hay [are] always important.”

Pitts’ charges stay on a fairly consistent regimen year-round, too. “I don’t change the diet in the summer, other than limiting grass consumption on horses with a weight issue or laminitic tendencies (sorry, ponies!),” she explained. “I always feed a high-fat feed with protein enough to build muscle, skin and hair.”  

Summer coat care can present a challenge, especially if you’re competing. However, time taken to consider your horse’s comfort and health is always time well spent.  

A Quick Grooming Refresher

Here are the basics of a good grooming routine:

• Begin by putting some muscle into your currying to loosen the dirt and scurf that accumulates on your horse’s skin.
• Then brush the coat vigorously from front to back, using short strokes in the direction of hair growth and alternating arms. Start with stiff-bristled brushes for heavy dirt or caked-on mud, moving to progressively softer, finer-bristled brushes. 
• Finish with a rub rag or soft brush to remove dust.

To Clip or Not?

As of July 1, 2021, a horse is not permitted to compete in International Equestrian Federation (FEI) events “… if the horse’s sensory hairs have been clipped and/or shaven or in any other way removed, unless individual sensory hairs have been removed by a veterinarian to prevent pain or discomfort for the horse.” 

The reason is the whisker-like hairs around the eyes and muzzle are tactile hairs, known as vibrissae. As the FEI veterinary committee stated in a 2020 memo, it believes that removal of these hairs “ … reduces the horse’s sensory ability.” 

In addition, the hair inside the ears helps protect against biting insects and can be gently cleaned with a soft brush by turning the ear inside-out. 

There are no official restrictions for clipping the body, legs and under-jaw area, etc. This is an individual preference and often done as much for sanitary reasons—especially in hot, humid climates—as for appearance. 

Just ask dressage groom Ciera Cordero, whose experience with muggy, “brutal” Florida summers has taught her to keep the clippers handy. “I keep all my [mostly warmblood] horses regularly body clipped throughout the summer unless they naturally have a soft, short, thin coat. The short hair is easier to keep clean and avoid skin problems,” she explained. “Otherwise, [I do] routine leg clipping between body clipping to help keep the hair short, happy, dry and fungus-free!”

By contrast, hunter/jumper groom Laurie Pitts is not a fan of summer clips. “Clipping takes away all the horse’s defenses against bugs, sun and moisture,” she said. “The natural summer coat is slick and lays close to the skin, serving as a natural protectant against these things and sloughing off water like a raincoat. 

“Horses are supposed to sweat! Don’t try and stop this process by taking their hair away. Keep the hair, curry/brush/rub on them until your arm falls off, and you will have a beautiful coat that looks amazing,” she said.

The obvious exception, as Pitts noted, is horses whose coats should be clipped because they suffer from pituitary pars intermedia dysfunction, which causes the hair to grow in thick and heavy all year long. “When you must do this, you have to compensate with other ways of protecting them, like fly sheets/socks/masks and even more frequent application of fly spray,” Pitts said.

This article originally appeared in the Summer 2022 issue of Practical Horseman.

Samantha Burton Henley is a master groom and riding instructor who leaves her horses out 24/7 rather than keeping them inside when powerful sun rays are shining and the bugs are buzzing. She also opts to skip fly sheets and hoods that another popular option among trainers.

Even though each horse has access to a run-in, they all choose to stand outside during the hottest, brightest hours of the day. She doesn’t stress about the bright sun rays or pesky bugs from ruining her horses’ silky coats. Thanks to a combination of powerful horse grooming hair care products her horse’s never lose a sleek, silky shine. Here are her favorites and her routine for using them.

How do you keep your horse’s coat from fading?

Her first line of defense is UltraShield® EX, UltraShield® Red, and Ultrashield® Green fly sprays. Each fly repellent formulation includes non-greasy ingredients that help protect the horse’s coat in addition to battling bugs. By keeping bugs at bay she doesn’t have to worry about unsightly bumps or welts on her horse’s coats. And, she rotates between the three products to avoid insect resistance.

“It’s insane the amount of ticks and horrible bites our horses had,” she said. “As soon as we started alternating it has been amazing how much better our school horses look this year. And we don’t have any superbugs.”

For added protection, Santa Fe is a spray-on horse coat conditioner that also includes sunscreen. The conditioner contains silk proteins to revitalize the coat, mane, and tail. Best of all, its non-slip formulation makes it safe for the entire body.

How do you keep moisture in your horse’s hooves?

Shiny, silky coats are the attention grabbers and that means hooves often get overlooked. Depending on the season, how hot and dry it is, Samantha keeps Hooflex® Therapeutic Conditioner, and Hooflex® All Natural Dressing And Conditioner, on-hand for application as soon as the horse’s feet get too dry.

“People don’t’ start paying attention until their horse is throwing his shoes from stomping his feet all day long,” she said. “Usually, we don’t start applying until August but it has been a dry year so we’re not waiting.”

For a polished look, she applies a coat of SuperShine® Hoof Polish & Sealer Clear before entering the show pen. The quick-drying formula provides a super high-gloss finish and the polish rubs off naturally in about a week.

What else can be done for coat health?

Good grooming is the key to maximizing the effects of any grooming product. Samantha cautions against getting in too much of a rush in currying a horse’s coat. Sweat can increase sun bleaching. Bathing horse too frequently can be counterproductive but a hosing off removes the buildup.

Remember, the inside of the horse is as important to creating that shine as grooming and conditioning the outside. Work with a veterinarian to ensure your horse is getting the proper nutrition and supplements to support your efforts.

To check out other helpful tips from Samantha, check them out here! 

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